Understanding Surge Protectors

August 10th, 2011
 
Surge protectors, also known as surge suppressors or transient-voltage surge suppressors, are devices designed to limit the voltage supplied to an electrical device by shorting to ground any excess voltage above a safe threshold. These electrical devices may be installed in residential and commercial power distribution panels, process control systems, and communications systems. Most commonly, they appear in the form of power strips and whole-house surge protectors. 
 
Surge suppressors come in all kinds of configurations, shapes and sizes to accommodate the smallest electrical device up to the largest and most complicated, high-voltage equipment.  There may be no apparent difference in appearance between a power strip that merely acts as an extension cord and a power strip that contains the extra protection of a built-in surge suppressor.  For this reason, consumers should be aware of what they’re buying to make sure the device they purchase is suitable for their intended use.
 
Power surges, also known as transient voltages, are prolonged rises in voltage significantly above the designated level in the flow of electricity.  These differ from power spikes, which are power escalations of shorter duration. These phenomena will cause wires to heat up like the filament in an incandescent light bulb, with the result that the surrounding elements may melt or burn. In this way, power surges and spikes can cause gradual or sudden damage to sensitive components within electronic equipment, including computers and audiovisual equipment.
 
Surges and spikes happen for the following reasons:This desktop computer, unprotected by a power suppressor, was damaged by a power surge.
  • lightning. When lightning strikes near a power line, millions of volts of electricity can feed into a building and overload any connected appliances. The only defense against this form of power surge is to unplug sensitive appliances during storms, as typical surge protectors do not provide sufficient protection;
  • the operation of high-powered electrical devices, such as vacuum cleaners, refrigerators and air conditioners. These appliances can place large and sudden demands on a building’s electrical system, upsetting the steady flow of electricity to sensitive appliances and electronics throughout the house. Even minor power spikes, if they occur regularly, can damage sensitive components in electronics throughout a building; and
  • mechanical failure, such as faulty wiring or downed power lines.

Surge suppression is typically provided by one or more metal-oxide varistors (MOVs), which are two-terminal semiconductors whose function is similar to pressure-sThe inside of a surge protector.  Courtesy of How Stuff Works.comensitive valves, by conducting electricity only when the power level reaches a threshold beyond safe fluctuations. The excess voltage is re-routed to the ground wire, safely dissipating the voltage into the earth. As the MOV only diverts the surge current while leaving the normal current to flow into the appliance, the operation of surge-protected electrical devices should not be interrupted during power spikes or surges. This same principle is employed using gas-discharge arrestors (GDAs), which use an inert gas that ionizes and becomes an effective conductor only at unsafe voltages. Surge suppression may be achieved through the use of either of these designs, which may be accompanied by backup fuses that burn out and close the circuit when excess voltage is not stopped by the surge suppressor.

Inspectors and homeowners may note a few warnings concerning MOVs and GDAs:

  • They will eventually fail after repeated surges, which is why high-quality surge protectors incorporate warning lights or alarms to inform homeowners that the suppressor is no longer functional. However, lights and alarms are no guarantee of the functionality of the surge suppressor, so they should be replaced periodically to ensure the safety of sensitive electronics. Failed MOVs that are not disconnected have been known to start fires themselves.
  • They will not work if the power or electrical receptacle does not have a ground wire. If the surge or spike is not sent to ground by the surge protector, it will destroy the delicate electronics they were meant to protect. The warranty offered by a surge protector’s manufacturer is only valid if the surge protector is used in a properly grounded outlet.

InterNACHI inspectors may check for a sticker that identifies the unit as a transient-voltage surge suppressor. These units have met the criteria for Underwriters Laboratories (UL) 1449, the UL’s minimum performance standard for surge suppressors. InterNACHI inspectors should be aware of the common misconception that surge suppressors and power strips are the same thing, as many power strips have no ability to protect against power surges. A power strip that’s designed merely for use as an extension cord and which bears a sticker that labels it as a “relocatable power tap” should not be relied upon for protection during power surges.

Due to the electrical sensitivity and expense of computers, it is strongly advised that they are connected to a UL-listed surge protector, which contains the following metrics:

  • clamping voltage, which is the smallest voltage that will cause the MOVs to conduct electricity to the ground wire. There are three levels of protection:  330V, 400V and 500V. Lower clamping voltages offer better protection;
  • energy absorption, which is a rating in joules used to determine how much energy the suppressor can absorb before it fails. Higher numbers, such as 600 joules or more, indicate better protection; and
  • response time, which indicates the amount of time that equipment will be exposed to a power surge before the suppressor kicks in. High-quality suppressors will activate in less than one nanosecond.
In summary, surge protectors are small devices used to prevent dangerous fluctuations of electricity from damaging sensitive and costly appliances and electronics.  Consumers should be aware that power strips do not necessarily offer this protection, and inspectors can help consumers understand the difference between these devices, as well as their proper use.

BEACHSIDE  Home Inspection is a full service home inspection company located in Brevard Country Florida, serving Cape Canaveral, Cocoa Beach, Merritt Island, Satellite Beach, Indialantic, Indian Harbour Beach, Melbourne Beach, Melbourne, and Palm Bay.

 

Maintaining Your AC System

May 17th, 2011

Your homes central air conditioning system must be periodically inspected and maintained in order to function properly. While an annual inspection performed by a trained professional is recommended, homeowners can do a lot of the work themselves by following these simple tips .Exterior Condenser Unit
 
Clean the Exterior Condenser Unit and Components
  
The exterior condenser unit is the large box located on the side of the building that is designed to push heat from the inside of the building to the outdoors. Inside of the box are coils of pipe that are surrounded by thousands of thin metal “fins” that allow the coils more surface area to exchange heat. Follow these tips when cleaning the exterior condenser unit and its inner components — after turning off power to the unit!
  • Remove any leaves, spider webs and other debris from the unit’s exterior. Trim foliage back several feet from the unit to ensure proper air flow.
  • Remove the cover grille to clean any debris from the unit’s interior. A garden hose can be helpful for this task.
  • Straighten any bent fins with a tool called a fin comb.
  • Add lubricating oil to the motor. Check your owner’s manual for specific instructions.
  • Clean the evaporator coil and condenser coil at least once a year.  When they collect dirt, they may not function properly.
Inspect the Condensate Drain Line
  
Condensate drain lines collect condensed water and drain it away from the unit.  They are located on the side of the inside fan unit. Sometimes there are two drain lines—a primary drain line that’s built into the unit, and a secondary drain line that can drain if the first line becomes blocked. Homeowners can inspect the drain line by using the following tips, which take very little time and require no specialized tools:
  • Inspect the drain line for obstructions, such as algae and debris. If the line becomes blocked, water will back up into the drain pan and overflow, potentially causing a safety hazard or water damage to your home.
  • Make sure the hoses are secured and fit properly.
Clean the Air Filter
The air filter slides out for easy replacement
 
Air filters remove pollen, dust and other particles that would otherwise circulate indoors. Most filters are typically rectangular in shape and about 20 inches by 16 inches, and about 1 inch thick. They slide into the main ductwork near the inside fan unit. The filter should be periodically washed or replaced, depending on the manufacturer’s instructions. A dirty air filter will not only degrade indoor air quality, but it will also strain the motor to work harder to move air through it, increasing energy costs and reducing energy efficiency. The filter should be replaced monthly during heavy use during the cooling seasons. You may need to change the filter more often if the air conditioner is in constant use, if building occupants have respiratory problems,if  you have pets with fur, or if dusty conditions are present. 
 
Cover the Exterior Unit
 

When the cooling season is over, you should cover the exterior condenser unit in preparation for winter. If it isn’t being used, why expose it to the elements? This measure will prevent ice, leaves and dirt from entering the unit, which can harm components and require additional maintenance in the spring. A cover can be purchased, or you can make one yourself by taping together plastic trash bags. Be sure to turn the unit off before covering it.

Close the Air Distribution Registers
 
Air distribution registers are duct openings in ceilings, walls and floors where cold air enters the room. They should be closed after the cooling season ends in order to keep warm air from back-flowing out of the room during the warming season. Pests and dust will also be unable to enter the ducts during the winter if the registers are closed. These vents typically can be opened or closed with an adjacent lever or wheel.  Remember to open the registers in the spring before the cooling season starts.  Also, make sure they are not blocked by drapes, carpeting or furniture.
 
In addition, homeowners should practice the following strategies in order to keep their central air conditioning systems running properly:
  • Have the air conditioning system inspected by a professional each year before the start of the cooling season.
  • Reduce stress on the air conditioning system by enhancing your home’s energy efficiency. Switch from incandescent lights to compact fluorescents, for instance, which produce less heat. 
In summary, any homeowner can perform periodic inspections and maintenance to their home’s central air conditioning system.

BEACHSIDE  Home Inspection is a full service home inspection company located in Brevard Country Florida, serving Cape Canaveral, Cocoa Beach, Merritt Island, Satellite Beach, Indialantic, Indian Harbour Beach, Melbourne Beach, Melbourne, and Palm Bay.

Citizens property insurance premiums rise with rebuilding costs

April 21st, 2011

State’s largest property insurer boosts its cost of rebuilding

By Julie Patel, Sun Sentinel
April 21, 2011

Citizens Property Insurance is calculating the costs of rebuilding homes in a new way, and it’s driving up some policyholders’ premiums.

Insurance agents report mixed results, with some complaining that Citizens is inflating how much it will cost to rebuild a home in some cases.

State-backed Citizens is the largest property insurer in the state with more than 1.3 million policies.

Christine Ashburn, a citizens spokeswoman, said the new calculation gives more complete estimates than the ones used earlier. The insurer is only using it for new policies and those with changes in coverage.

That could have big implications for the more than 300,000 homes that Citizens plans to inspect over the next two years. If the insurer decides the policy is based on incorrect building features, the new rebuilding cost calculations could be applied as well.

Citizens officials have not yet said how many policies have been affected so far by the new rebuilding costs, or how many it expects to be.

Tamara Cahill, a Fort Lauderdale homeowner, got a surprise when she applied for a discount from Citizens because she installed a home security system. At first, the insurer gave her $106 off her annual premium.

Then it said her premium would go up 21 percent, to $3,340, when her policy is renewed in May. Citizens changed her policy to add the security system – and recalculated the cost of rebuilding her house as well.

“They’re obviously [looking] for any way to increase” premiums, said Cahill, a single mother who works and attends nursing school.

State law caps annual premium increases for Citizens by 10 percent a year. But they can go up by more if hurricane-proofing discounts are revoked or rebuildings costs change.

Alan Chesler, a partner of Alan James Insurance, said he used the software on about 20 policies and it’s driving premiums up by 17 percent or more.

Dulce Suarez-Resnick, a legislative coordinator for the Latin American Association of Insurance Agents, said she has gotten a lot of complaints from agents and their policyholders.

She said part of the problem may be that the new rebuilding costs give too much weight to policyholders’ neighborhooods, so all homes in an upscale neighborhood get similar boosts in price, regardless of their features.

For instance, her home is in a posh neighborhood of Miramar and appraised at close to $300,000, but Citizens says it would cost about $500,000 to rebuild. “It’s a huge discrepancy,” said Suarez-Resnick. A Citizens representative said it’s working to fix the problem, she said.

One thing Suarez-Resnick said she’s learned: Policyholders should make sure agents fill out all of the house-specific information requested by Citizens. Errors occur if more general information is picked up by default.

Ashburn advised customers to “work with their agent on providing an accurate overview of their property to ensure we have captured the risk characteristics correctly.” She said the insurer will consider a recent appraisal.

“The important point here is that people need to be adequately insured so that if a storm strikes they can re-build,” she said

The appraisals won’t always be accepted. Chesler said the new software bumped up the rebuilding cost for one of this policyholders with a high-end home from $767,000 to $1.2 million. “Citizens refused to accept the appraisal. [The] client canceled the Citizens policy and went with” another company in March, he said.

Rob Crane, an insurance agent with Barkley Insurance Agency in Fort Lauderdale, said rebuilding costs decreased for most of the roughly 150 policies he moved from private insurers to Citizens in the past three months. That’s because many of the private insurers raised their rebuidling cost estimates in recent years by annual inflation rate of 2 percent to 4 percent. Those that didn’t because of the construction slowdown typically have lower rebuilding costs than Citizens, he said.

Crane recently helped Michelle Hitchcock, a policyholder in Fort Lauderdale, get coverage from Citizens after she was dropped by her insurer. Her home was recently reinspected by Citizens and she lost $340 in hurricane discounts and got a higher rebuilding cost of $140,000. Combined, that drove her premium up by $760 to $2,607.

“It seems sad that after 10 years of having my house, it’s such a struggle,” said Hitchcock, a shipyard comptroller.

Energy Efficient Windows

February 15th, 2011

 

Window upgrades are arguably one of the best improvements you can make to an older home. New energy efficient windows can significantly lower yearly operating costs (heating and cooling), provide additional security (theft and wind storm suceptability), and increase overall property value. Your return on investment (ROI) is almost immediate. For  home buyers, always take a good look at the windows when evaluating which home is best for you. Choose a home inspector trained in green home technologies.

What Are Low E Windows

Low-E windows use low-emissivity glass, a microscopically thin and virtually invisible metal or metallic oxide layer incorporated in the glazing surface to control heat transfer through insulated windows, reducing energy loss by 30% to 50%.  Since the heating and cooling energy lost through windows accounts for 4% of all U.S. energy consumption every year, the Department of Energy is beginning to push more efficient windows as a standard, with low-E windows at the forefront. 

 Benefits of the Low E DesignThe super-thin coating utilized in low-E glass helps to reduce the transfer of heat through the window in order to keep heat from entering the home in hot climates, and to prevent heat from escaping from the home to the exterior in colder climates.  The low-E coating is typically used on multi-pane windows with argon gas-fills.  Argon is an inert gas which has higher resistance to heat flow than air, and is non-toxic, colorless and odorless.  In hotter climates with east- or west-facing windows, the low-E coating is applied to the outer layer of the glazing to help keep the heat out.  In colder, heating-dominated climates, it is applied to the inner layer to keep warmth in. 
Installing low-E windows can provide significant energy efficiency and savings, especially in hotter climates where windows with a low solar heat-gain coefficient (SHGC) are most effective.  The SHGC rating for a window is the quantification of its properties in relation to its ability to transmit heat from solar radiation.  A high SHGC means more solar heat is allowed to pass through the window, and a low SHGC means less solar heat will pass through.  While a window with a higher SHGC can actually be beneficial in some climates where cooling needs are minimal, because it allows for more solar heat gain to warm the interior during winter months, windows with a low SHGC rating is best for hot climates where blocking the sun’s heat is much more important.

The Downside

New, energy efficient windows can be expensive. Even though you will likely recoup the cost through energy savings and home appreciation, it still represents an initial expense. Also, as homes become ‘tighter’ due to higher quality and better sealed windows, the air in the home may be more stagnant and could, in extreme cases, dangerously affect the safe exchange of air and proper venting of gas appliances. Also, windows with Low E glass may inadvertantly reflect the sun onto a nearby structure or neighbors house, potentially causing damage.

Do Your Own Research

Every home, like its owner is unique. With any new technologies, there are always trade offs.  Energy-conscious consumers, can benefit from knowing more about energy-efficient windows and the advantages and problems associated with them. Consider an energy survey of your home to understand your current costs and the potential for improvements.

BEACHSIDE  Home Inspection is a full service home inspection company located in Brevard Country Florida, serving Cape Canaveral, Cocoa Beach, Merritt Island, Satellite Beach, Indialantic, Indian Harbour Beach, Melbourne Beach, Melbourne, and Palm Bay.

Choose A Home Inspector That Works For You

February 10th, 2011

Finding a home inspector that works only for the home buyer (or homeowner in the case of pre-sale listing inspections) is essential. A home inspector must have no undisclosed interest in the sale of the property, including generating income for future repair work, kick backs for referrals to tradesmen, or writing ‘soft’ reports to gain favor of agents for future referrals.

Agents who refer a single inspector are unethical, and in many states it’s against the law. The best agents understand, and are not threatened by, the independence of a professional home inspection and will encourage clients to choose their own home inspector. Many will offer a list (3 – 5) of local inspectors to help clients who simply are intimidated by the inspection process and don’t know where to start. In this case, it is important to ask, if any of the inspectors on the list are what are considered ‘preferred vendors’, which means they may have a financial arrangement with the office.

  • If your state requires licensing, make sure you choose only a licensed home inspector. While home inspection licensing does not necessarily ensure a quality inspector, it does provide a gate for inspectors to pass through to ensure a minimum amount of education, insurance, and background check was performed. 
  •  Review local home inspector websites, look for their photo or video, and ask to see a sample report; beware the checkbox report with no photos. In addition, unemployed contractors ‘moonlighting’ as inspectors may not be the best choice; stucco contractors don’t necessarily know about electrical, and home builders may not have the same critical eye as a home inspector.
  • Verify your inspector is a member of a national home inspector association, which have additional educational requirements, Standards of Practice, and Codes of Ethics.
  • Most importantly, the ability to communicate with your home inspector is as important as their qualifications. Have a conversation with your inspector and have him explain the home inspection process and what you can expect. Are you encouraged to be there during the inspection? You should be.

Be empowered with information, and enjoy the inspection process. This is arguably the best opportunity to really understand your home.

BEACHSIDE  Home Inspection is a full service home inspection company located in Brevard Country Florida, serving Cape Canaveral, Cocoa Beach, Merritt Island, Satellite Beach, Indialantic, Indian Harbour Beach, Melbourne Beach, Melbourne, and Palm Bay.

How’s your roof doing?

January 23rd, 2011

You can get a pretty good assessment of the condition of your roof by simply taking a good look at it periodically.  You can take a look safely from the ground using binoculars, but if you use a ladder, exercise extreme caution. Here are a few roof inspection tips for asphalt shingle roofs:

  1. Do the shingles lay flat?  They should, otherwise there may be an issue. Common issues include nail pops, torn tabs, curling, impact damage, heaving due to damaged underlayment and age.
  2. What’s in your gutters? The gutters are a great place to look when assessing your roof.  Shingles that shed their protective mineral granules which often collect the gutters, indicating roof wear and accelerated deterioration.
  3. Are there any moisture stains on interior ceilings or walls? This is a pretty good indication of a current or past leak, which requires immediate attention. Unless corrected, water intrusion only gets worse over time and can cause structural damage, mold and costly repairs.

Consider a professional home inspection of your home to understand its condition and devise a checklist of maintenance activities to protect your investment and ensure your families safety.

BEACHSIDE  Home Inspection is a full service home inspection company located in Brevard Country Florida, serving Cape Canaveral, Cocoa Beach, Merritt Island, Satellite Beach, Indialantic, Indian Harbour Beach, Melbourne Beach, Melbourne, and Palm Bay.

Home Inspection Services For Brevard County, FL

December 13th, 2010

BEACHSIDE  Home Inspection is a full service home inspection company located in Brevard Country Florida, serving Cape Canaveral, Cocoa Beach, Merritt Island, Satellite Beach, Indialantic, Indian Harbour Beach, Melbourne Beach, Melbourne, and Palm Bay.

Tree Hazards

December 11th, 2010

 

Although trees are generally a desirable feature of home landscaping, they can pose a threat to buildings in a number of different ways. Home owners should educate themselves about tree dangers so that they can prevent potentially dangerous situations.
 
Tree Roots and Foundations
 
Contrary to popular belief, tree roots do not normally pierce through a building’s foundation. They can, however, damage a foundation in the following ways:
  • Roots can sometimes penetrate a building’s foundation through pre-existing cracks.  
  • Large root systems that extend beneath a house can cause foundation uplift.
  • Roots can leech water from the soil beneath foundations, causing the structures to settle and sink unevenly.

Other Dangers:

  • Trees that are too close to buildings may be fire hazards. Soffit vents provide easy access for flames to enter a house.
  • Leaves and broken branches can clog gutters, potentially causing ice dams or water penetration into the building.
  • Old, damaged or otherwise weak trees may fall and endanger lives and property. Large, weak branches, too, are a hazard, especially if weighed down by ice. 
  • Tree roots can potentially penetrate underground drainage pipes, especially when they leak. Water that leaks from a drainage or sanitary pipe can encourage root growth in the direction of the leak, where the roots may eventually enter the pipe and obstruct its flow.
  • Trees may be used by insects and rodents to gain access to the building. 
  • Falling trees and branches can topple power lines and communication lines.
 
Structural Defects in TreesDangerous Crack in tree .
 
Trees with structural defects likely to cause failure to all or part of a tree can damage nearby buildings. The following are indications that a tree has a structural defect:
  • dead twigs, dead branches, or small, off-color leaves;
  • species-specific defects. Some species of maple, ash and pear often form weak branch unions, while some other fast-growing species of maple, aspen, ailanthus and willow are weak-wooded and prone to breakage at a relatively young age;
  • cankers, which are localized areas on branches or stems of a tree where the bark is sunken or missing. Cankers are caused by wounding or disease. The presence of a canker increases the chance that the stem will break near the canker. A tree with a canker that encompasses more than half of the tree’s circumference may be hazardous even if the exposed wood appears healthy;
  • hollowed trunks;
  • Advanced decay (wood that is soft, punky or crumbly, or a cavity where the wood is missing) can create a serious hazard. Evidence of fungal activity, such as mushrooms, conks and brackets growing on root flares, stems or branches are indications of advanced decay. A tree usually decays from the inside out, eventually forming a cavity, but sound wood is also added to the outside of the tree as it grows. Trees with sound outer wood shells may be relatively safe, but this depends on the ratio of sound-to-decayed wood, and other defects that might be present; 
  • cracks, which are deep splits through the bark, extending into the wood of the tree. Cracks are very dangerous because they indicate that the tree is presently failing;
  • V-shaped forks. Elm, oak, maple, yellow poplar and willow are especially prone to breakage at weak forks;
  • The tree leans at more than 15 degrees from vertical. Generally, trees bent to this degree should be removed if they pose a danger. Trees that have grown in a leaning orientation are not as hazardous as trees that were originally straight but subsequently developed a lean due to wind or Canker in tree root damage. Large trees that have tipped in intense winds seldom recover. The general growth-form of the tree and any uplifted soil on the side of the tree opposite the lean provide clues as to when the lean developed.
Tips for preventing tree dangers:
  • Binoculars are helpful for examining the higher portions of tall trees for damage. 
  • When planting trees, they should be kept far from the house. It is impossible for the homeowner to reliably predict how far the roots will spread, and trees that are too close to a building may be a fire hazard. 
  • Do not damage roots. In addition to providing nutrition for the tree, roots anchor the tree to the ground. Trees with damaged roots are more likely to lean and topple than trees with healthy roots. Vehicles are capable of damaging a tree’s root system.
  • Dead trees within the range of a house should be removed. If they are not removed, the small twigs will fall first, followed by the larger branches, and eventually the trunk. This process can take several years.
  • Inspect your trees periodically for hazards, especially in large, old trees. Every tree likely to have a problem should be inspected from bottom to top. Look for signs of decay and continue up the trunk toward the crown, noting anything that might indicate a potential hazard.
In summary, trees that are too close to buildings can potentially cause structural damage. 

BEACHSIDE  Home Inspection is a full service home inspection company located in Brevard Country Florida, serving Cape Canaveral, Cocoa Beach, Merritt Island, Satellite Beach, Indialantic, Indian Harbour Beach, Melbourne Beach, Melbourne, and Palm Bay.

Concrete Care

November 25th, 2010

Concrete surfaces and structures are found at most homes. Foundations and structure walls consist of concrete slabs and concrete blocks. Exterior masonary is typically used for walkways and quite often driveways. Before actually inspecting the masonry, it can be helpful to take into account some of the conditions that may influence the condition of the building. Sometimes, the cause of a problem can be found by evaluating exterior and environmental factors, such as the climate, terrain and any vegetation around the structure. These conditions can be helpful to understand when the culprit of a visible defect is not readily apparent.

Climate

Different environments have different effects on building materials. Specific climate conditions have their own special concerns and problems. For example, damage from freeze-thaw cycles can be a major issue in a cold-weather climate such as upstate New York that will not be relevant for the arid climate of western Arizona.

Environmental Concerns

Bodies of salt water near the building or climates of extreme humidity may contribute to increased efflorescence.

Acid rain caused by industrial pollution may be the culprit in damage to limestone, sandstone and marble structures.

Nearby excavations can sometimes lower water tables and cause soil problems that eventually lead to foundation issues. Vibrations from major nearby roadways or railways can sometimes cause damage to mortar joints.

Terrain and Vegetation

It may be useful to determine the type of soil around the building, since different types of soil drain moisture in different ways. Poor soil drainage may eventually lead to structural damage.

Proper surface drainage around the house is important. The grade should slope downward and away from the structure.

Ivy and other species that grow on exterior walls can sometimes penetrate and damage mortar joints, and their leaves may make it difficult for porous masonry materials to dry completely after rainfall.

Cracking

Cracking is one of the most common problems observed in masonry, and cracks will often need further analysis to determine what is causing them and what type of corrective action may need to be taken. Like most building materials, masonry expands and contracts due to changes in temperature. Masonry can deform elastically over time in order to accommodate small movements, but any large movements usually cause cracking.

Even during curing, expansion and contraction occur. Water evaporates as concrete block cures, causing the concrete to shrink. Clay brick absorbs moisture as it cures, causing expansion. Joints are built into walls in order to accommodate this movement, and cracking can be the result of improper joints.

Some common causes of cracking in masonry include:

•walls leaning or bulging;
•salt crystals expanding inside the pores of the masonry;
•differential movement of building materials;
•differential foundation settlement;
•iron or steel wall reinforcements corroding;
•expansion and contraction from freeze-thaw cycles or ambient thermal and moisture variations;
•inadequate support over windows and doors; and
•shrinkage from drying, especially in concrete block.

Efflorescence

Excess moisture in masonry may be indicated by a white, staining deposit called efflorescence. This white staining is actually a salt deposit left by water that contained dissolved salts that evaporate after penetrating a masonry structure. Salts can also be present in all kinds of masonry materials, including brick, mortar, concrete block, plaster and stucco.

Efflorescence can be unsightly, and may also be an indicator that excess moisture may be present in the masonry, which can lead to problems. Salt crystals deposited inside the pores of the masonry can sometimes lead to cracking when they expand. Any observed efflorescence should be cleaned off of surfaces.

Steel Lintel Deflection

Lintels are beams that span openings in masonry walls, such as windows and doors. Reinforced masonry, pre-cast concrete and steel angles are all commonly used as lintels, but steel lintels in particular can sometimes cause problems if they are deflecting too much. This is not a structural problem, but too much deflection can often crack the stiff masonry or cause the lintel to rest on a window or door frame and transfer the wall’s load to it, which will lead to problems down the road.

Corrosion

Moisture penetration puts routed cells, collar joints and steel rebar in bond beams at risk for corrosion. Anchors attaching veneer to a support, horizontal joint reinforcement, and ties that hold multi-wythe masonry walls together can each also be susceptible to corrosion. Once corrosion begins, rust is produced, which occupies up to six times the original volume of the steel. The expansion of volume leads to cracking of masonry, and this allows for even more water penetration, perpetuating the cycle.

While corrosion-resistant coating is beneficial for the reinforcing materials, and the alkaline nature of mortar helps prevent corrosion, tight mortar joints and proper flashing are essential for ensuring that water penetration does not lead to problems.

Inadequate Flashing

Flashing is extremely important for controlling and diverting the flow of water away from the masonry, and it is very common to see missing or improperly installed flashing. This will often lead over time to problems from moisture penetration, sometimes requiring costly repair.

While most of the cracking found in masonary is typical shrinkage and settlement cracking, it is essential that all cracks be sealed and monitored over time. If you find that a crack continues to grow or propogate, contact a masonary or structural specialist. At the very least, trip hazards can form, but active cracking can be a sign of a serious structural issue.

BEACHSIDE  Home Inspection is a full service home inspection company located in Brevard Country Florida, serving Cape Canaveral, Cocoa Beach, Merritt Island, Satellite Beach, Indialantic, Indian Harbour Beach, Melbourne Beach, Melbourne, and Palm Bay.

What’s Bugging You?

November 23rd, 2010

Cockroaches are one of the most commonly encountered household pests. Homeowners and inspectors can learn about ways to eliminate these insects and the conditions that encourage their infestation.
 
Cockroach infestation is a common household problem

Cockroaches have a broad, flattened body and a relatively small head that covers their mandibles and other mouthparts. They have six legs, large ocelli (simple eyes), and a pair of long, flexible antennae. Although winged, they are not adept fliers. The best-known varieties are the American cockroach (1.2 inches long), the German and Asian cockroaches (0.59 inches long), the Oriental cockroach (0.98 inches long), and the brown-banded cockroach (0.55 inches long).

Facts and Figures

  • The world’s heaviest cockroach is the Australian giant burrowing cockroach, which can weigh more than 30 grams and reach 3½ inches in length.
  • While cockroaches could withstand six to 15 times as much radiation exposure as humans, the popular belief that they will “inherit the Earth” in the wake of nuclear war is largely undeserved; other insects, such as fruit flies, have even better resistance against radiation than cockroaches.
  • While it has been known for some time that cockroaches and termites are related, it wasn’t until 2007 that it was proven that termites are a kind of “social cockroach,” having actually evolved from cockroaches. Similarities include specialized casings that enclose their eggs, perforations in the internal parts of their heads, and similarities among their young. There are significant differences between these pests, however; termites pose a greater danger to wood, and they form huge, complex societies, while cockroaches are solitary, generalized insects with few special adaptations.
  • Some species of cockroaches can survive for months without food and subsist on nothing but the glue on the back of a postage stamp, and even their own feces. Experiments have revealed that they can go without air for 45 minutes and recover after being submerged under water for half an hour.
  • Cockroaches are prolific breeders and can produce several thousand offspring in a year, once they become established in a home. They are normally introduced on clothing, shopping bags and furniture, and they can also simply wander in from the outdoors.

Cockroaches are known to spread diseases such as salmonella, food poisoning and dysentery, primarily through contact with their feces and defensive secretions. They also transport dangerous microbes, a particular problem in hospitals. Their skin, which is discarded through periodic molting, can become airborne and trigger severe asthmatic reactions in prone individuals. Incredibly, cockroaches have even been found to be second only to house dust as the worst allergen affecting people, according to the University of Kentucky’s College of Agriculture. Besides these physical ailments, cockroaches emit an unpleasant odor during swarming and mating, and they can keep a building’s occupants awake at night with their incessant hissing and, in the case of some cockroach species, chirping.

InterNACHI inspectors should not be surprised to find evidence of cockroaches in messy buildings, as the insects thrive in dirty environmenCommon household cockroachests. No buildings are completely immune to cockroach infestation, however, as they will be attracted to even the smallest amounts of food deposits. They prefer to feed on decaying grease, sugar and other organic matter, as well as inanimate, starchy food sources such as glue, wallpaper and even book bindings. Pepper-like specs in kitchen cupboards are an indication of cockroach infestation, as is the observation of adult cockroaches or their egg sacs in hard-to-reach locations, such as cracks and crevices in kitchen cabinets, drains, and behind dishwashers and refrigerators. The entire kitchen area should be inspected, especially under sinks, in cabinet hinge areas, drawers, refrigeration gaskets, dishwashers, stoves and other cooking appliances. Also check crawlspaces, bathrooms and other dark, moist areas where food sources may be present.

Tips that inspectors can pass on to homeowners:

  • Place boric acid in areas of cockroach activity. Boric acid can maintain an infestation once under control, but pyrethrin should be used first and the whole structure bug-bombed. 
  • Pyrethrin should be used first, and after the population is under control place boric acid wherever needed.
  • Place bait stations containing hydramethylnon or fipronil in areas of termite activity. At night, homeowners can sneak into the kitchen and turn on the lights. If cockroaches scurry for cover, observe where they run and position traps accordingly.
  • Keep all food in sealed containers, use trash cans that have tight-fitting lids, and do not leave pet food out overnight.
  • Clean the kitchen regularly, and wipe moisture from the kitchen sink before going to bed at night. 
  • Vacuum frequently.
  • Repair dripping taps and leaky pipes, broken roof tiles, and any other condition that might allow moisture to enter areas where cockroaches can establish harborage.
  • Seal off all entry points into the house, such as cracks around baseboards, pipes, windows, cabinets, doors and crevices in bathrooms with copper mesh or steel wool and caulk or putty.
  • Keep lights on at night. Although it will consume additional electricity, cockroaches will avoid lit areas. For the same reason, restaurant owners sometimes leave lights on around dumpsters.
  • If cockroach infestation persists, contact a qualified exterminator.
In summary, cockroaches are hardy, disease-carrying household pests that can be controlled by maintaining a clean home and eliminating sources of moisture intrusion.

BEACHSIDE Home Inspection is a full service home inspection company located in Brevard Country Florida, serving Cape Canaveral, Cocoa Beach, Merritt Island, Satellite Beach, Indialantic, Indian Harbour Beach, Melbourne Beach, Melbourne, and Palm Bay. Content for this article was provided by the International Association of Certified Home Inspectors.