About Septic Systems

July 16th, 2010

Septic Systems

Septic systems treat and disperse relatively small volumes of wastewater from individual and small numbers of homes and commercial buildings. Septic system regulation is usually a state and local responsibility. The EPA provides information to homeowners and assistance to state and local governments to improve the management of septic systems to prevent failures that could harm human health and water quality.

Information for Homeowners

If your septic tank failed, or you know someone whose did, you are not alone. As a homeowner, you are responsible for maintaining your septic system. Proper septic system maintenance will help keep your system from failing and will help maintain your investment in your home. Failing septic systems can contaminate the ground water that you and your neighbors drink and can pollute nearby rivers, lakes and coastal waters.

Ten simple steps you can take to keep your septic system working properly:
1.Locate your septic tank and drainfield. Keep a drawing of these locations in your records.
2.Have your septic system inspected at least every three years. Hire an InterNACHI inspector trained in septic inspections.
3.Pump your septic tank as needed (generally, every three to five years).
4.Don’t dispose of household hazardous waste in sinks or toilets.
5.Keep other household items, such as dental floss, feminine hygiene products, condoms, diapers, and cat litter out of your system.
6.Use water efficiently.
7.Plant only grass over and near your septic system. Roots from nearby trees or shrubs might clog and damage the system. Also, do not apply manure or fertilizers over the drainfield.
8.Keep vehicles and livestock off your septic system. The weight can damage the pipes and tank, and your system may not drain properly under compacted soil.
9.Keep gutters and basement sump pumps from draining into or near your septic system.
10.Check with your local health department before using additives. Commercial septic tank additives do not eliminate the need for periodic pumping and can be harmful to your system.

How does it work?

A typical septic system has four main components: a pipe from the home, a septic tank, a drainfield, and the soil. Microbes in the soil digest and remove most contaminants from wastewater before it eventually reaches groundwater. The septic tank is a buried, watertight container typically made of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene. It holds the wastewater long enough to allow solids to settle out (forming sludge), and oil and grease to float to the surface (as scum). It also allows partial decomposition of the solid materials. Compartments and a T-shaped outlet in the septic tank prevent the sludge and scum from leaving the tank and traveling into the drainfield area. Screens are also recommended to keep solids from entering the drainfield. The wastewater exits the septic tank and is discharged into the drainfield for further treatment by the soil. Micro-organisms in the soil provide final treatment by removing harmful bacteria, viruses and nutrients.

Your septic system is your responsibility!

Did you know that, as a homeowner, you’re responsible for maintaining your septic system? Did you know that maintaining your septic system protects your investment in your home? Did you know that you should periodically inspect your system and pump out your septic tank? If properly designed, constructed and maintained, your septic system can provide long-term, effective treatment of household wastewater. If your septic system isn’t maintained, you might need to replace it, costing you thousands of dollars. A malfunctioning system can contaminate groundwater that might be a source of drinking water. And if you sell your home, your septic system must be in good working order.

Pump frequently…

You should have your septic system inspected at least every three years by a professional, and have your tank pumped as necessary (generally every three to five years).

Use water efficiently…

Average indoor water use in the typical single-family home is almost 70 gallons per person per day. Dripping faucets can waste about 2,000 gallons of water each year. Leaky toilets can waste as much as 200 gallons each day. The more water a household conserves, the less water enters the septic system.

Flush responsibly…

Dental floss, feminine hygiene products, condoms, diapers, cotton swabs, cigarette butts, coffee grounds, cat litter, paper towels, and other kitchen and bathroom waste can clog and potentially damage septic system components. Flushing household chemicals, gasoline, oil, pesticides, anti-freeze and paint can stress or destroy the biological treatment taking place in the system, as well as contaminate surface waters and groundwater.

How do I maintain my septic system?

•Plant only grass over and near your septic system. Roots from nearby trees or shrubs might clog and damage the drainfield.
•Don’t drive or park vehicles on any part of your septic system. Doing so can compact the soil in your drainfield or damage the pipes, the tank or other septic system components.
•Keep roof drains, basement sump pump drains, and other rainwater and surface water drainage systems away from the drainfield. Flooding the drainfield with excessive water slows down or stops treatment processes and can cause plumbing fixtures to back up.

Why should I maintain my septic system?

A key reason to maintain your septic system is to save money! Failing septic systems are expensive to repair or replace, and poor maintenance is often the culprit. Having your septic system inspected (at least every three years) is a bargain when you consider the cost of replacing the entire system. Your system will need pumping every three to five years, depending on how many people live in the house and the size of the system. An unusable septic system or one in disrepair will lower your property’s value and could pose a legal liability. Other good reasons for safe treatment of sewage include preventing the spread of infection and disease, and protecting water resources. Typical pollutants in household wastewater are nitrogen phosphorus, and disease-causing bacteria and viruses. Nitrogen and phosphorus are aquatic plant nutrients that can cause unsightly algae blooms. Excessive nitrate-nitrogen in drinking water can cause pregnancy complications, as well as methemoglobinemia (also known as “blue baby syndrome”) in infancy. Pathogens can cause communicable diseases through direct or indirect body contact, or ingestion of contaminated water or shellfish. If a septic system is working properly, it will effectively remove most of these pollutants.

BEACHSIDE Home Inspection serves all of Brevard County Florida, including Cape Canaveral, Merritt Island, Cocoa Beach, Satellite Beach, Indian Harbour Beach, Indialantic, Melbourne Beach, Melbourne, Viera, and Palm Bay. For more information go to www.beachsideinspection.com

Satellite Beach Median Listing Prices

July 5th, 2010

 

Mold, Moisture and Your Home

June 5th, 2010

  Mold Basics 
  • The key to mold control is moisture control.
  • If mold is a problem in your home, you should clean up the mold promptly and fix the water problem.
  • It is important to dry water-damaged areas and items within 24 to 48 hours to prevent mold growth.

Why is mold growing in my home?

 
Molds are part of the natural environment.  Outdoors, molds play a part in nature by breaking down dead organic matter, such as fallen leaves and dead trees.  But indoors, mold growth should be avoided.  Molds reproduce by means of tiny spores; the spores are invisible to the naked eye and float through outdoor and indoor air.  Mold may begin growing indoors when mold spores land on surfaces that are wet.  There are many types of mold, and none of them will grow without water or moisture.
 
Can mold cause health problems?
 

Molds are usually not a problem indoors, unless mold spores land on a wet or damp spot and begin growing.  Molds have the potential to cause health problems.  Molds produce allergens (substances that can cause allergic reactions), irritants and, in some cases, potentially toxic substances (mycotoxins).  Inhaling or touching mold or mold spores may cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals.  Allergic responses include hay fever-type symptoms, such as sneezing, runny nose, red eyes, and skin rash (dermatitis).  Allergic reactions to mold are common.  They can be immediate or delayed.  Molds can also cause asthma attacks in people with asthma who are allergic to mold.  In addition, mold exposure can irritate the eyes, skin, nose, throat and lungs of both mold-allergic and non-allergic people.  Symptoms other than the allergic and irritant types are not commonly reported as a result of inhaling mold.  Research on mold and health effects is ongoing.  This article provides a brief overview; it does not describe all potential health effects related to mold exposure.  For more detailed information, consult a health professional.  You may also wish to consult your state or local health department.

How do I get rid of mold?  

It is impossible to get rid of all mold and mold spores indoors.  Some mold spores will be found floating through the air and in house dust. Mold spores will not grow if moisture is not present.  Indoor mold growth can and should be prevented or controlled by controlling moisture indoors. If there is mold growth in your home, you must clean up the mold and fix the water problem. If you clean up the mold but don’t fix the water problem, then, most likely, the mold problem will recur.
 
Who should do the cleanup?
 
This depends on a number of factors.  One consideration is the size of the mold problem.  If the moldy area is less than about 10 square feet (less than roughly a 3-foot by 3-foot patch), in most cases, you can handle the job yourself, following the guidelines below.  
  • If there has been a lot of water damage, and/or mold growth covers more than 10 square feet, consult with an InterNACHI inspector.
  • If you choose to hire a contractor (or other professional service provider) to do the cleanup, make sure the contractor has experience cleaning up mold.  Check references and ask the contractor to follow the recommendations of the EPA, the guidelines of the American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygenists (ACGIH), or other guidelines from professional or government organizations.
  • Do not run the HVAC system if you know or suspect that it is contaminated with mold.  This could spread mold throughout the building. 
  • If the water and/or mold damage was caused by sewage or other contaminated water, then call in a professional who has experience cleaning and fixing buildings damaged by contaminated water. 
  • If you have health concerns, consult a health professional before starting cleanup.

Tips and Techniques 

 
The tips and techniques presented in this section will help you clean up your mold problem.  Professional cleaners or remediators may use methods not covered here.  Please note that mold may cause staining and cosmetic damage.  It may not be possible to clean an item so that its original appearance is restored.   
  • Fix plumbing leaks and other water problems as soon as possible. Dry all items completely.
  • Scrub mold off hard surfaces with detergent and water, and dry completely.
  • Absorbent or porous materials, such as ceiling tiles and carpet, may have to be thrown away if they become moldy. Mold can grow on or fill in the empty spaces and crevices of porous materials, so the mold may be difficult or impossible to remove completely.
  • Avoid exposing yourself or others to mold.
  • Do not paint or caulk moldy surfaces.
  • Clean up the mold and dry the surfaces before painting. Paint applied over moldy surfaces is likely to peel.  If you are unsure about how to clean an item, or if the item is expensive or of sentimental value, you may wish to consult a specialist. Specialists in furniture repair and restoration, painting and art restoration and conservation, carpet and rug cleaning, water damage, and fire or water restoration are commonly listed in phone books. Be sure to ask for and check references. Look for specialists who are affiliated with professional organizations. 
     
What to Wear When Cleaning Moldy Areas:  
  • Avoid breathing in mold or mold spores.  In order to limit your exposure to airborne mold, you may want to wear an N-95 respirator, available at many hardware stores and from companies that advertise on the Internet. (They cost about $12 to $25.)  Some N-95 respirators resemble a paper dust mask with a nozzle on the front, and others are made primarily of plastic or rubber and have removable cartridges that trap and prevent most of the mold spores from entering.  In order to be effective, the respirator or mask must fit properly, so carefully follow the instructions supplied with the respirator. Please note that the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) requires that respirators fit properly (via fit testing) when used in an occupational setting.
  • Wear gloves. Long gloves that extend to the middle of the forearm are recommended.  When working with water and a mild detergent, ordinary household rubber gloves may be used.  If you are using a disinfectant, a biocide such as chlorine bleach, or a strong cleaning solution, you should select gloves made from natural rubber, neoprene, nitrile, polyurethane or PVC.  Avoid touching mold or moldy items with your bare hands.   
  • Wear goggles.  Goggles that do not have ventilation holes are recommended.  Avoid getting mold or mold spores in your eyes.
How do I know when the remediation or cleanup is finished?

You must have completely fixed the water or moisture problem before the cleanup or remediation can be considered finished, based on the following guidelines:  

  • You should have completed the mold removal.  Visible mold and moldy odors should not be present.  Please note that mold may cause staining and cosmetic damage.   
  • You should have revisited the site(s) shortly after cleanup, and it should show no signs of water damage or mold growth.  
  • People should have been able to occupy or re-occupy the area without health complaints or physical symptoms.  
  • Ultimately, this is a judgment call; there is no easy answer. If you have concerns or questions, be sure to ask your InterNACHI inspector during your next scheduled inspection.

 
 
Moisture and Mold Prevention and Control Tips
  • Moisture control is the key to mold control, so when water leaks or spills occur indoors, ACT QUICKLY.  If wet or damp materials or areas are dried within 24 to 48 hours after a leak or spill happens, in most cases, mold will not grow.  
  • Clean and repair roof gutters regularly.  
  • Make sure the ground slopes away from the building’s foundation so that water does not enter or collect around the foundation.  
  • Keep air-conditioning drip pans clean and the drain lines unobstructed and flowing properly.
  • Keep indoor humidity low.  If possible, keep indoor humidity below 60% relative humidity (ideally, between 30% to 50%).  Relative humidity can be measured with a moisture or humidity meter, which is a small, inexpensive instrument (from $10 to $50) that is available at many hardware stores.  
  • If you see condensation or moisture collecting on windows, walls or pipes, ACT QUICKLY to dry the wet surface and reduce the moisture/water source.  Condensation can be a sign of high humidity.

Actions that will help to reduce humidity:

  • Vent appliances that produce moisture, such as clothes dryers, stoves, and kerosene heaters, to the outdoors, where possible.  (Combustion appliances, such as stoves and kerosene heaters, produce water vapor and will increase the humidity unless vented to the outside.)  
  • Use air conditioners and/or de-humidifiers when needed.  
  • Run the bathroom fan or open the window when showering.  Use exhaust fans or open windows whenever cooking, running the dishwasher or dishwashing, etc.

Actions that will help prevent condensation:

  • Reduce the humidity (see above).  
  • Increase ventilation and air movement by opening doors and/or windows, when practical.  Use fans as needed.  
  • Cover cold surfaces, such as cold water pipes, with insulation.  
  • Increase air temperature.
 

Testing or Sampling for Mold

 
Is sampling for mold needed?  In most cases, if visible mold growth is present, sampling is unnecessary.  Since no EPA or other federal limits have been set for mold or mold spores, sampling cannot be used to check a building’s compliance with federal mold standards.  Surface sampling may be useful to determine if an area has been adequately cleaned or remediated.  Sampling for mold should be conducted by professionals who have specific experience in designing  mold sampling protocols, sampling methods, and interpreting results.  Sample analysis should follow analytical methods recommended by the American Industrial Hygiene Association (AIHA), the American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygienists (ACGIH), or other professional organizations.
 
Suspicion of Hidden Mold 
 
You may suspect hidden mold if a building smells moldy but you cannot see the source, or if you know there has been water damage and residents are reporting health problems. Mold may be hidden in places such as the backside of dry wall, wallpaper or paneling, the top-side of ceiling tiles, or the underside of carpets and pads, etc. Other possible locations of hidden mold include areas inside walls around pipes (with leaking or condensing pipes), the surface of walls behind furniture (where condensation forms), inside ductwork, and in roof materials above ceiling tiles (due to roof leaks or insufficient insulation).
 
Investigating Hidden Mold Problems 
 
Investigating hidden mold problems may be difficult and will require caution when the investigation involves disturbing potential sites of mold growth. For example, removal of wallpaper can lead to a massive release of spores if there is mold growing on the underside of the paper. If you believe that you may have a hidden mold problem, consider hiring an experienced professional.
 
Cleanup and Biocides 
 
Biocides are substances that can destroy living organisms. The use of a chemical or biocide that kills organisms such as mold (chlorine bleach, for example) is not recommended as a routine practice during mold cleanup. There may be instances, however, when professional judgment may indicate its use (for example, when immune-compromised individuals are present). In most cases, it is not possible or desirable to sterilize an area; a background level of mold spores will remain, and these spores will not grow if the moisture problem has been resolved. If you choose to use disinfectants or biocides, always ventilate the area and exhaust the air to the outdoors. Never mix chlorine bleach with other cleaning solutions or detergents that contain ammonia because toxic fumes could be produced.   
 
Please note: Dead mold may still cause allergic reactions in some people, so it is not enough to simply kill the mold; it must also be removed.
 
Ten Things You Should Know About Mold
 
 1.  Potential health effects and symptoms associated with mold exposure include allergic reactions, asthma, and other respiratory complaints. 
 
 2.  There is no practical way to eliminate all mold and mold spores in the indoor environment; the way to control indoor mold growth is to control moisture.
 
 3.  If mold is a problem in your home, you must clean up the mold and eliminate sources of moisture.
 
 4.  Fix the source of the water problem or leak to prevent mold growth.
 
 5.  Reduce indoor humidity (to 30% to 60%) to decrease mold growth by: 
a. venting bathrooms, dryers, and other moisture-generating sources to the outside;
b. using air conditioners and de-humidifiers;
c. increasing ventilation; and
d. using exhaust fans whenever cooking, dishwashing, and cleaning.  
 6.  Clean and dry any damp or wet building materials and furnishings within 24 to 48 hours to prevent mold growth.
 
 7.  Clean mold off hard surfaces with water and detergent, and dry completely. Absorbent materials that are moldy (such as carpeting and ceiling tiles) may need to be replaced. 
 
 8.  Prevent condensation.  Reduce the potential for condensation on cold surfaces (i.e., windows, piping, exterior walls, roof and floors) by adding insulation. 
 
 9.  In areas where there is a perpetual moisture problem, do not install carpeting.
 
10.  Molds can be found almost anywhere; they can grow on virtually any substance, provided moisture is present. There are molds that can grow on wood, paper, carpet, and foods.
 
 

Those Pesky Ants!

April 28th, 2010

Article by Nick Gromico and Rob London (InterNACHI)

Ants are among the most prevalent pests in households, restaurants, hospitals, offices, warehouses, and virtually all buildings where food and water can be found. While mostly harmless to humans, ants (especially carpenter ants) can cause considerable building damage.Ant damage due to galleries  Inspectors can expand their knowledge base by being able to identify some of the telltale signs of ant infestation.
 
Ant Behavior
 
Ants are social insects that live in colonies divided into three castes: queens, males and workers. Most of the ants you may observe, which are responsible for gathering food, are sterile female workers. Winged males and females will leave the nest to mate, and to find suitable locations for new colonies. After mating, the males die and the impregnated females (queens) shed their wings and lay eggs that will hatch into the legless, grub-like larvae. The queen takes care of these larvae as they develop until they finally become pupae. Within a few weeks, adult worker ants emerge from these pupae and take over the job of tending the young.
 

Distinguishing Ants from Termites

Winged ants are often mistaken for winged termites, which also leave their nests to mate. These insects can be distinguished from one another by three main characteristics:

  • The ant’s body is constricted, giving it the appearance of having a thin waist, while the termite’s body is not constricted.
  • The ant’s hind wings are smaller than its front wings, while the termite’s front and hind wings are about the same size. Wings might not always be present, however, as both species eventually them. Ants and termites are different in three key ways
  • Winged female and worker ants have elbowed antennae, while the termite’s antennae are not elbowed.

Termites and ants both construct nests in moist wood, but ant nests are typically smoother and lack mud structures commonly found in termite nests. Also, termites actually subsist on wood, so the structural damage they leave it their wake is generally more severe than that caused by ants, which merely tunnel through wood.

Nests

Carpenter ants nest in both moist and dry wood, but they prefer moist wood. Accordingly, nests are more likely to be found in wood dampened by water leaks, such as wood around bathtubs and sinks, poorly sealed windows and door frames, roof leaks and poorly flashed chimneys. Nests are especially common in moist, hollow spaces, such as the wall void behind a dishwasher and in a hollow deck column. As there will often be no external signs of damage, probing the wood with a screwdriver helps reveal the excavated “galleries.” Another technique for locating hidden nests is to tap along baseboards and other wood surfaces with the blunt end of a screwdriver while listening for the hollow sound of tunneled wood. If a nest is nearby, carpenter ants often will respond by making a rustling sound within the nest.

Inspection

The following clues are evidence that a building is host to an ant infestation:

  • long trails of ants, perhaps numbering in the hundreds or thousands. Ants assemble in long trails along structural elements, such as wires and pipes, and frequently use them to enter and travel within a structure to their destination. Follow the trail to locate their nest or their entry point, such as an electrical outlet, or gap along a baseboard or around a water pipe;Ants entering, or exiting, a lightswitch
  • a few straggler ants. These are scouts in search of food and nesting sites. They, too, may be followed back to the nest to betray their family;
  • holes or cracks in walls or foundations, especially where pipes enter the building, and around windows and doors. These can provide entry points for ants and other insects. Kitchens are other food storage and preparation areas are particular problem areas;
  • frass deposits. Frass is the fine sawdust produced after galleries are carved out of the wood. If you suspect that a piece of woodwork hosts a gallery, you can tap on it with a screwdriver tip and see if any dust falls away;
  • a distinctive rustling sound similar to the crinkling of cellophane. Ants are small, but nests are large enough to produce perceptible noise; and
  • outside, inspect for nests in mulch and vegetation next to the foundation. Check under potted plants, patio blocks, stepping stones, in piles of rocks, lumber and firewood.
Exclusion Practices
 
A number of steps can be taken by homeowners to reduce the potential for future ant problems, such as:
  • Store food items that attract ants, such as sugar, syrup, honey, and pet food in closed containers. Wash them to remove residues from outer surfaces.
  • Rinse out empty soft drink containers or remove them from the building.
  • Thoroughly clean up grease and spills.
  • Remove garbage from buildings daily and change liners frequently.
  • Correct roof and plumbing leaks and other moisture problems that will attract ants.
  • Eliminate wood-to-ground contact, such as where landscaping has pushed soil or mulch up against the wood siding of a home.
  • Clip back tree limbs and vegetation touching the roof or siding of the house. Limbs and branches serve as bridges between tree limb nests and the structure.
  • Seal cracks and openings in the foundation, especially where utility pipes and wires enter from the outside.
  • Stack firewood away from the foundation, and elevate it off the ground. Never store firewood in the garage or other areas of the home, as firewood is a major ant nesting area.
In summary, ants are complex creatures that create structural defects in buildings. Inspection and exclusion techniques should be practiced.
 
 

Defect of the Week (4/10/2010)

April 15th, 2010

Photo of clogged AC condensate lineObservation:  AC Condensate line is partially obstructed

Explanation:  The condensate drainage line, used to direct water from the furnace (HVAC)  to a drain, is noted to be partially obstructed.  Conditions typically noted include: a) debris is collecting in the condensate line; b) the line is kinked or pinched, forming a constriction to the free flow of the condensate; c) the lift pump is clogged or not operating.

Impact / Consequences:  A blockage in the condensate drain line may result in a back-up of water into the condensate drain system of the furnace.  This can result in a water damage to the furnace, and possibly expensive repairs should damage occur to critical components in the furnace.  The drain line should be cleared, to prevent water damage to the furnace, and to prevent water leaks that could damage stored items or adjacent surfaces.

SUMMARY:

All air conditioners, through normal operation, produce condensate; liquid formed when water vapor (humidity) comes in contact with cool surfaces (dew point).  When the air is drawn from a home’s interior, it is blown across the evaporator coil, cooling the air. The air reintroduced into the home is also dryer, due to water vapor removal by condensation. The condensation drips from the coil into a pan and must then be routed to the exterior of the home; this is normally accomplished by gravity (through downward sloping piping) or a lift pump (where downward sloping piping is not an option). It is essential that the condensate be efficiently removed from the indoor coil unit. Failure to do so, due to an obstruction in the line or lift pump issue, will cause a back up of condensate which can damage the unit, create moisture damage and promote mold growth.

Condensate lines are easily checked during the normal operation of the AC systems. Once you verify which type of condensate removal system you have (gravity or pump), check the drain line outside to see if water is weeping out. Also, you can often look into the unit when you remove the filter to see if there are signs of standing water or water damage. Many AC systems have an access port allowing the introduction of a cleaning fluid into the line ( check owner’s manual), to keep interior pipe obstructions from building up. Also, make sure the area around the exterior drain line is kept clear of obstructions and vegetation build up.

BEACHSIDE  Home Inspection is a full service home inspection company located in Brevard Country Florida, serving Cape Canaveral, Cocoa Beach, Merritt Island, Satellite Beach, Indialantic, Indian Harbour Beach, Melbourne Beach, Melbourne, and Palm Bay.

We are also a proud member of the International Association of Certified Home Inspectors (www.nachi.org).

Three Big Mistakes Every Home Buyer Should Avoid

March 19th, 2010

BEACHSIDE Home Inspection Logo

Mistake #1: Thinking you can’t afford it.
 
Today, buying the home of your dreams is easier than ever before.  Many people who thought that buying the home they wanted was simply out of their reach are now enjoying a new lifestyle in their very own new homes. 
 
Buying a home is the smartest financial decision you will ever make.  In fact, most American and Canadian homeowners would be financially broke at retirement if it wasn’t for one saving grace — the equity in their homes.  Furthermore, mortgage rates are more flexible today than ever, and tax allowances favor home ownership.    Real estate values have always risen steadily.  Of course, there are peaks and valleys, but the long-term trend is a consistent increase.  This means that every month when you make a mortgage payment, the amount that you owe on the home goes down and the value typically increases.  This “owe less, worth more” situation is called equity build-up, and is the reason you can’t afford not to buy.
 
Even if you have little money for a down payment, or credit problems, chances are that you can still buy that new home.  It just comes down to knowing the right strategies, and working with the right people.  See below. 
Mistake #2: Not hiring a buyer’s agent to represent you.
 
Buying property is a complex and stressful task.  In fact, it is often the biggest, single investment you will make in your lifetime.  At the same time, real estate transactions have become increasingly complicated.  New technology, laws, procedures, and competition from other buyers require buyer agents to perform at an ever-increasing level of professionalism.  For many home buyers, the process turns into a terrible, stressful ordeal.  In addition, making the wrong decisions can end up costing you thousands of dollars.  It does not have to be this way!
 
Work with a buyer’s agent who has a keen understanding of the real estate business and who is on your side.  Buyers’ agents have a fiduciary duty to you.  That means they are loyal to only you and are obligated to look out for your best interests.  Buyers’ agents can help you find the best home, the best lender, and the best InterNACHI inspector. This last perk is particularly useful, as there are many unqualified inspectors on the market today!   Trying to buy a home without an agent or a qualified inspector is, well… unthinkable. 
  
 
Mistake #3: Getting a cheap inspection.
 
Buying a home is probably the most expensive purchase you will ever make.  This is no time to shop for a cheap inspection.  The cost of a home inspection is very small relative to the home being inspected.  The additional cost of hiring a certified inspector is almost insignificant.  As a home buyer, you have recently been crunching the numbers, negotiating offers, adding up closing costs, shopping for mortgages, and trying to get the best deals.  Do not stop now.    InterNACHI-certified inspectors perform the best inspections, by far, and earn their fees many times over.  They do more, they deserve more and, yes, they generally charge a little more.  Do yourself a favor…and pay a little more for the quality inspection you deserve.      

BEACHSIDE  Home Inspection is a full service home inspection company located in Brevard Country Florida, serving Cape Canaveral, Cocoa Beach, Merritt Island, Satellite Beach, Indialantic, Indian Harbour Beach, Melbourne Beach, Melbourne, and Palm Bay.

We are also a proud member of the International Association of Certified Home Inspectors (www.nachi.org).

Defect of the Week (3/5/2010)

March 12th, 2010
Each week, a picture of a defect observed during a routine home inspection will be presented and reviewed. The purpose is to educate homeowners,  home buyers and real estate agents about important components of a residential property which, if defective, could be a personal safety issue or result in significant costs for repair. In addition, learning proper terminology will assist in the identification, communication, and review of the condition of the elements in a home

bath fan

Observation:  Bath exhaust fan is non operational and appears to terminate in the attic.

Explanation:  Exhaust fans must exhaust to the exterior, to ensure moist air is vented to the outside of the home, and to reduce humidity inside the home. 

Impact / Consequences:  Ducts not properly venting may result in moisture-related issues to the attic area, with mold and rot as possible consequential problems. 

SUMMARY:

A very common issue found in homes is the lack of proper ventilation in a bathroom. Through normal use, bathrooms are a source of significant moisture vapor created by running the shower or bath. Left unvented to the outdoors, this moisture covers nearby surfaces and increases the humidity levels in the home. Mold loves moisture; in fact, moisture is one of the three necessary components to mold growth, the others being warm temperatures and a source of food (drywall, wood etc). Since moisture is often the only controllable component preventing mold growth, proper venting to the outdoors is essential.

Even if a bathroom has a window, powered vents should be installed in all bathrooms. While opening a window is an alternative, homeowners often forget or do not want the colder or warmer outdoor air to enter the home (wasting heating or cooling energy). MOST IMPORATANTLY, bathroom fans must have their exhaust vented to the outdoors. Many homeowners will take the step to install a fan in the bathroom, but then fail to complete the job by routing the exhaust to the outdoors. Allowing the fan to vent into the open attic is very harmful to the home, allowing a buildup of moisture in the attic promoting mold growth and potential decay of structural members. If you are unsure if your bathroom fan is properly vented, contact a certified home inspector or licensed contractor to review the installation.

BEACHSIDE  Home Inspection is a full service home inspection company located in Brevard Country Florida, serving Cape Canaveral, Cocoa Beach, Merritt Island, Satellite Beach, Indialantic, Indian Harbour Beach, Melbourne Beach, Melbourne, and Palm Bay.

Defect of the Week (2/19/2010)

February 26th, 2010

beachside logo

Each week, a picture of a defect observed during a routine home inspection will be presented and reviewed. The purpose is to educate homeowners,  home buyers and real estate agents about important components of a residential property which, if defective, could be a personal safety issue or result in significant costs for repair. In addition, learning proper terminology will assist in the identification, communication, and review of the condition of the elements in a home.

Observation: Exterior door frame is rotted

Explanation: Deterioration of the door frame is noted, with rot observed.

Impact / Consequences: Wood rot is an indication of deterioration of wood components of the door that have been exposed to the effects of water and weather.   Failure to correct this condition increases the risk of water infiltration and damage to structural components and interior finishes.  Repair by a qualified professional is required.

SUMMARY

Driven rain, standing water and moisture intrusion are probably the biggest threat to our homes. A home inspector spends a large portion of the home inspection looking at the integrity of the building envelope for signs of past moisture damage, active damage, and potential for future damage. Rain water that is not routed away from the foundation can collect and cause structural damage. Missing, damaged or degraded flashings  can allow water to enter the building and cause decay of wood framing and structure. Untreated, exposed and unsealed wood deteriorates quickly, creating further entry points for water. Old, damaged or degraded roofing materials expose the underlayment, which itself deteriorates, leading to sheathing damage below. In addition to causing wood rot of trim and structural elements, uncontrolled moisture in the presence of elevated temperature has the potential for mold growth.

One of the biggest mistakes homeowners make is to assume the rot damage is only cosmetic and not take it seriously. Wood rot or mold is a sign of an underlying water intrusion or a venting issue that should be identified and corrected. Without identifying the source, any cosmetic repair / cleanup would only be temporary.

BEACHSIDE  Home Inspection is a full service home inspection company located in Brevard Country Florida, serving Cape Canaveral, Cocoa Beach, Merritt Island, Satellite Beach, Indialantic, Indian Harbour Beach, Melbourne Beach, Melbourne, and Palm Bay.

We are also a proud member of the International Association of Certified Home Inspectors (www.nachi.org).

Defect of the Week (Feb12,2010)

February 17th, 2010

BEACHSIDE Home Inspection Logo

Each week, a picture of a defect observed during a routine home inspection will be presented and reviewed. The purpose is to educate homeowners,  home buyers and real estate agents about important components of a residential property which, if defective, could be a personal safety issue or result in significant costs for repair. In addition, learning proper terminology will assist in the identification, communication, and review of the condition of the elements in a home.

Concrete driveway cracksObservation: Driveway has settled.

Explanation: Settlement is observed at the driveway.  Settlement of the driveway may be due to a number of factors that include poor soil or compaction issues, ground heave, or parking of vehicles. Linear cracks indicate settling rather than typical shrinkage cracks.

Impact / Consequences: Unsealed settlement cracks will permit moisture entry, which will promote further deterioration over time.  The natural affects of weather and seasonal heave and settlement will invariably lead to progressive deterioration of the driveway over time.  Where cracks are from natural effects, normal maintenance should be applied to preserve the driveway in order to maximize the time required before major  repairs or replacement is required.

Summary:

Cracks observed in concrete driveways are very common, especially in areas of the country that experience freeze / thaw temperature cycles. The problem is they are too common, and as a result, more serious cracks can be overlooked. Most common are shrinkage cracks which are caused as concrete cures by giving up its moisture.  Driveways / sidewalks typically have control joints (intentional gaps) installed to give the concrete a suggested place to crack (release energy). Shrinkage cracks usually appear to be discontinuous, and random through the concrete; while all cracks should be properly sealed to prevent water intrusion they don’t typically represent a structural problem. Linear cracks, however, are more cause for concern, as they indicate a shifting or settling of the soil below. The concrete breaks as the sub grade settles and moves. Large linear cracks are pretty good indication of settling and have a strong likelihood of getting worse over time. The cracks should be evaluated and sealed by a professional to prevent water from entering and accelerating the fracture. They should then be monitored for further growth and heaving which can lead to safety hazards and costly repairs.

BEACHSIDE Home Inspection is a full service home inspection company serving the following areas in Brevard County, Florida: Cape Canaveral, Cocoa Beach, Merritt Island, Satellite Beach, Indian Harbour Beach, Indialantic, Melbourne Beach, Melbourne, and Palm Bay.

Defect of the Week, 2/6/10

February 11th, 2010

BEACHSIDE Home Inspection LogoEach week, a picture of a defect observed during a routine home inspection will be presented and reviewed (for info only). The purpose is to educate homeowners,  home buyers and real estate agents about important components of a residential property which, if defective, could be a personal safety issue or result in significant costs for repair. In addition, learning proper terminology will assist in the identification, communication, and review of the condition of the elements in a home.

Improperly routed exhaust flueObservation: Gas furnace (medium efficiency) has insufficient clearance of exhaust flue from combustible materials.

Explanation: Combustible materials are noted to be in close proximity to the exhaust flue for the furnace.

Impact / Consequences: To reduce the risk of fire, adequate clearances are required between the exhaust flue and combustible surfaces or materials.   Note that manufacturer’s specifications for clearances may vary for various furnaces and installations, and the determination of safe clearances is generally performed by heating technicians.  It is suggested that a certified heating specialist be consulted to review the installation for safety.

Summary:  

One of the most critical area to look at in a home is the venting of combustible gases.  Homes having natural gas, propane, oil or wood burning appliances (furnace, stove, water heater, fireplace etc.) must safely vent the products of combustion properly to the outdoors. Toxic compounds present in combustion gases can lead to problems ranging from nuisance headaches to serious illness, carbon monoxide poisoning and even death. Insufficient clearance of hot exhaust flues from combustible materials (wood, drywall, ceiling tile, roofing) can cause a fire. Flue pipes can be single or double walled, and the clearances depend on the type and efficiency of appliance being vented.  Improperly sized or routed flue pipe can result in poor appliance draft conditions. Information is typically found on the labels attached to the pipe and in the manufacturer’s installation instructions. If there are any questions, a certified heating contractor will know the local building codes and should be consulted. Also, carbon monoxide (CO) alarms should be used with gas or oil furnaces and water heaters, and with fireplaces. These devices should be installed close to the combustion appliance being monitored. Having a CO detector close to bedrooms is also a good idea.

BEACHSIDE Home Inspection is a full service home inspection company, serving Brevard County, FL. Areas include Cape Canaveral, Merritt Island, Cocoa Beach, Satellite Beach, Indian Harbour Beach, Indialantic, Melbourne Beach, Melbourne, and Palm Bay.