BEACHSIDE Home Inspection Blog

• Install three-slot receptacles and wire them so that they’re correctly grounded.
• Install ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs). These can be installed upstream or at the receptacle itself. GFCIs are an accepted replacement because they will protect against electric shocks even in the absence of grounding, but they may not protect the powered appliance. Also, GFCI-protected ungrounded receptacles may not work effectively with surge protectors. Ungrounded GFCI-protected receptacles should be identified with labels that come with the new receptacles that state:  “No Equipment Ground.”
• Replace three-slot receptacles with two-slot receptacles. Two-slot receptacles correctly represent that the system is ungrounded, lessening the chance that they will be used improperly.

Homeowners and non-qualified professionals should never attempt to modify a building’s electrical components. Misguided attempts to ground receptacles to a metallic water line or ground rod may be dangerous. Home inspectors may recommend that a qualified electrician evaluate electrical receptacles and wiring.

BEACHSIDE Home Inspection serves all of Melbourne and Brevard County, FL, including the beach communities of Cape Canaveral, Cocoa Beach, Merritt Island, Satellite Beach, Indian Harbour Beach, Indialantic, and Melbourne Beach.

Our home inspection services include seller & buyer home inspections, wind mitigation inspections, insurance 4 Point inspections. We are also available for consultation during your home seach to help you choose that perfect home.

Call us today at 321-431-9914 or visit our website at www.beachsideinspection.com.

Attic pull-down ladders, also called attic pull-down stairways, are collapsible ladders that are permanently attached to the attic floor. Occupants can use these ladders to access their attics without being required to carry a portable ladder.

• cut bottom cord of structural truss. Often, homeowners will cut through a structural member in the field while installing a pull-down ladder, unknowingly weakening the structure. Structural members should not be modified in the field without an engineer’s approval;
• fastened with improper nails or screws. Homeowners often use drywall or deck screws rather than the standard 16d penny nails or ¼” x 3” lag screws. Nails and screws that are intended for other purposes may have reduced shear strength and they may not support pull-down ladders;
• fastened with an insufficient number of nails or screws. Manufacturers provide a certain number of nails with instructions that they all be used, and they probably do this for a good reason. Inspectors should be wary of “place nail here” notices that are nowhere near any nails;
• lack of insulation. Hatches in many houses (especially older ones) are not likely to be weather-stripped and/or insulated. An uninsulated attic hatch allows air from the attic to flow freely into the home, which may cause the heating or cooling system to run overtime. An attic hatch cover box can be installed to increase energy savings;
• loose mounting bolts. This condition is more often caused by age rather than installation, although improper installation will hasten the loosening process;
• attic pull-down ladders are cut too short. Stairs should reach the floor; 
• attic pull-down ladders are cut too long. This causes pressure at the folding hinge, which can cause breakage;
• improper or missing fasteners;
• compromised fire barrier when installed in the garage;
• attic ladder frame is not properly secured to the ceiling opening;
• closed ladder is covered with debris, such as blown insulation or roofing material shed during roof work. Inspectors can place a sheet on the floor beneath the ladder to catch whatever debris may fall onto the floor; and
• cracked steps. This defect is a problem with wooden ladders.
• In sliding pull-down ladders, there is a potential for the ladder to slide down quickly without notice. Always pull the ladder down slowly and cautiously. 

Tips for safely using your pull down ladder:

• Almost two-thirds of reported deaths caused by home fires from 2003 to 2006 resulted from fires in homes that lacked working smoke alarms.
• In 23% of home fire deaths, smoke alarms were present but did not sound. Sixty percent of these failures were caused by the power supplies having been deliberately removed due to false alarms.
• Every year in the United States, about 3,000 people lose their lives in residential fires. Most of these deaths are caused by smoke inhalation, rather than as a result of burns.

Smoke Alarm Types

Ionization and photoelectric are the two main designs of smoke detectors. Both types must pass the same tests to be certified to the voluntary standard for smoke alarms, but they perform differently in different types of fires. Detectors may be equipped with one or both types of sensors — known as dual-sensor smoke alarms – and possibly a heat detector, as well. These sensors are described as follows:

• Ionization smoke sensors are the most common and economical design, and are available at most hardware stores. They house a chamber sided by small metal plates that irradiate the air so that it conducts electricity. When smoke enters the chamber, the current flow becomes interrupted, which triggers an alarm to sound. These sensors will quickly detect flaming-type fires but may be slower to react to smoldering fires.
• Photoelectric smoke sensors use a light-sensitive photocell to detect smoke inside the detector. They shine a beam of light that will be reflected by smoke toward the photocell, triggering the alarm. These sensor types work best on smoldering fires but react more slowly to flaming fires. They often must be hard-wired into the house’s electrical system, so some models can be installed only in particular locations.

While heat detectors are not technically classified as smoke detectors, they are useful in certain situations where smoke alarms are likely to sound false alarms. Dirty, dusty industrial environments, as well as the area surrounding cooking appliances, are a few places where false alarms are more likely and where heat detectors may be more useful.

Location

Individual AHJs, or authorities having jurisdiction, may have their own requirements for smoke-alarm placement, so inspectors and homeowners can check with their local building codes if they need specific instructions. The following guidelines, however, can be helpful.

Smoke alarms should be installed in the following locations:

• on the ceiling or wall outside of each separate sleeping area in the vicinity of bedrooms;
• in each bedroom, as most fires occur during sleeping hours;
• in the basement, preferably on the ceiling near the basement stairs;
• in the garage, due to all the combustible materials commonly stored there; 
• on the ceiling or on the wall with the top of the detector between 6 to 12 inches from the ceiling; and/or
• in each story within a building, including basements and cellars, but not crawlspaces or uninhabited attics.

Smoke alarms should not be installed in the following locations:

• near heating or air-conditioning supply and return vents;
• near a kitchen appliance;
• near windows, ceiling fans or bathrooms equipped with a shower or tub;
• where ambient conditions, including humidity and temperature, are outside the limits specified by the manufacturer’s instructions;
• within unfinished attics or garages, or in other spaces where temperatures can rise or fall beyond the limits set by the manufacturer;
• where the mounting surface could become considerably warmer or cooler than the rest of the room, such as an inadequately insulated ceiling below an unfinished attic; or
• in dead-air spots, such as the top of a peaked roof or a ceiling-to-wall corner.

Power and Interconnection

Power for the smoke alarms may be hard-wired directly into the building’s electrical system, or it may come from just a battery. Hard-wired smoke detectors are more reliable because the power source cannot be removed or drained, although they will not function in a power outage. Battery-operated units often fail because the battery can be easily removed, dislodged or drained, although these units can be installed almost anywhere. Older buildings might be restricted to battery-powered designs, while newer homes generally offer more options for power sources. If possible, homeowners should install smoke alarms that are hard-wired with a battery backup, especially during a renovation or remodeling project.

Smoke alarms may also be interconnected so that if one becomes triggered, they all sound in unison. Interconnected smoke alarms are typically connected with a wire, but new technology allows them to be interconnected wirelessly. The National Fire Protection Agency requires that smoke alarms be AFCI-protected.

Smoke alarms are invaluable, life-saving appliances when they are installed properly and adequately maintained. Here’s some additional tips on the proper use and care of smoke alarms:

• Parents should stage periodic nightly fire drills to assess whether their children will awaken from the alarm and respond appropriately.
• Never disable a smoke alarm. Use the alarm’s silencing feature to stop nuisance or false alarms triggered by cooking smoke or fireplaces.
• Test smoke alarms monthly, and replace their batteries at least twice per year. Change the batteries when you change your clocks for Daylight Saving Time.  Most models emit a chirping noise when the batteries are low to alert the homeowner that they need replacement.
• Smoke alarms should be replaced when they fail to respond to testing, or every 10 years, whichever is sooner. The radioactive element in ionization smoke alarms will decay beyond usability within 10 years.
• If you have any questions or concerns related to smoke alarms or fire dangers in the home, consult with an InterNACHI inspector during your next scheduled inspection.
• Smoke detectors should be replaced if they become damaged or wet, are accidentally painted over, are exposed to fire or grease, or are triggered without apparent cause.
• Note the sound of the alarm. It should be distinct from other sounds in the house, such as the telephone, doorbell and pool alarm.

*Source: Nick Gromicko and Rob London from the International Association of Certified Home Inspectors (www.nachi.org)

BEACHSIDE  Home Inspection (www.beachsideinspection.com) is a full service home inspection company serving the communities of Cocoa Beach, Satellite Beach, Melbourne Beach and all of Brevard County.

Annually, over 40,000 fires are attributed to home electrical wiring. These fires result in over 350 deaths and over 1,400 injuries each yearof the major causes of these fires. Fault conditions can create arcing that can ignite nearby combustibles such as wood, paper, andcarpets. Arcing faults often occur in damaged or deteriorated wires and cords. Some causes of damaged and deteriorated wiring include puncturing of wire insulation from picture hanging or cable staples, poorly installed outlets or switches, cords caught in doors or under furniture, furniture pushed against plugs in an outlet, natural aging, and cord exposure to heat vents and sunlight.

THE AFCI  

The “AFCI” is an Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter. AFCIs are newly-developed electrical devices designed to protect against fires caused by arcing faults in home electrical wiring. The AFCI should not be confused with the GFCI or ground fault circuit interrupter. The GFCI is designed to protect people from severe or fatal electric shocks while the AFCI protects against fires caused by arcing faults.

HOW THE AFCI WORKS

Conventional circuit breakers only respond to overloads and short circuits; so they do not protect against arcing conditions that produce erratic current flow. An AFCI is selective so that normal arcs do not cause it to trip. The AFCI circuitry continuously monitors current flow through the AFCI. AFCIs use unique current sensing circuitry to discriminate between normal and unwanted arcing conditions. Once an unwanted arcing condition is detected, the control circuitry in the AFCI trips the internal contacts, thus de-energizing the circuit and reducing the potential for a fire to occur.

An AFCI should not trip during normal arcing conditions, which can occur when a switch is opened or a plug is pulled from a receptacle.  Presently, AFCIs are designed into conventional circuit breakers combining traditional overload and short-circuit protection with arc fault protection. AFCI circuit breakers  (AFCIs) have a test button and look similar to ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) circuit breakers. Some designs combine GFCI and AFCI protection. Additional AFCI design configurations are anticipated in the near future.  

It is important to note that AFCIs are designed to mitigate the effects of arcing faults but cannot eliminate them completely. In some cases, the initial arc may cause ignition prior to detection and circuit interruption by the AFCI. The AFCI circuit breaker serves a dual purpose – not only will it shut off electricity in the event of an “arcing fault”, but it will also trip when a short circuit or an overload occurs.  The AFCI circuit breaker provides protection for the branch circuit wiring and limited protection for power cords and extension cords. Single-pole, 15- and 20- ampere AFCI circuit breakers are presently available.  

WHERE AFCIs SHOULD BE USED  

The National Electrical Code first started requiring AFCIs for receptacle outlets in bedrooms in 2002, later expanded to include all bedroom outlets. AFCIs should be considered for added protection in other circuits and for existing homes as well. Older homes with aging and deteriorating wiring systems can especially benefit from the added protection of AFCIs. AFCIs should also be considered whenever adding or upgrading a panel box while using existing branch circuit conductors.  

INSTALLING AFCIs  

AFCI circuit breakers should be installed by a qualified electrician. The installer should follow the instructions accompanying the device and the panel box. In homes equipped with conventional circuit breakers rather than fuses, an AFCI circuit breaker may be installed in the panel box in place of the conventional circuit breaker to add arc protection to a branch circuit. Homes with fuses are limited to receptacle or portable-type AFCIs, which are expected to be available in the near future, or AFCI circuit breakers can be added in separate panel boxes next to the fuse panel box.  

TESTING AN AFCI  

AFCIs should be tested after installation to make sure they are working properly and protecting the circuit. Subsequently, AFCIs should be tested once a month to make sure they are working properly and providing protection from fires initiated by arcing faults. A test button is located on the front of the device. The user should follow the instructions accompanying the device. If the device does not trip when tested, the AFCI is defective and should be replaced.  

AFCIs vs. GFCIs  

The GFCI also can protect against some electrical fires by detecting arcing and other faults to ground but cannot detect hazardous across-the-line arcing faults that can cause fires.  A ground fault is an unintentional electric path diverting current to ground. Ground faults occur when current leaks from a circuit. How the current leaks is very important. If a person’s body provides a path to ground for this leakage, the person could be injured, burned, severely shocked, or electrocuted. The National Electrical Code requires GFCI protection for receptacles located outdoors;  in bathrooms, garages, kitchens, crawl spaces and unfinished basements; and at certain locations such as near swimming pools.  AFCI and GFCI technologies can co-exist with each other and are a great complement for the most complete protection that can be provided on a circuit.

BEACHSIDE Home Inspection is located in Brevard County Florida, serving the communities of Cape Canaveral, Satellite Beach, Indian Harbour Beach, Indialantic, Melbourne Beach, Cocoa Beach, Melbourne and Merritt Island.

Many of us live in areas that are subject to extreme weather conditions. One of the biggest threats to our homes is the high winds that are often associated with the most severe storms. High winds take their toll on the weakest components of a home and once compromised, can lead to major water infiltration and even catastrophic structural damage. BEACHSIDE Home Inspection can help you understand the condition of your home and identify ways for to reduce your risks (and insurance costs).

The implementation of certain building techniques in order to limit damage caused by intense wind is called Wind Mitigation.

Incentives for Wind Mitigation:

• In some states, homeowners can benefit from reduced insurance premiums. The Gulf Coast states, which are most prone to windstorm damage from hurricanes, have each considered mandating incentives to mitigate damage due to wind. Mississippi and Texas currently do not have such legislation, although Florida has been successful. Following Hurricane Andrew, Florida passed a law requiring insurance companies to offer their customers discounts and credits for existing building features and home improvements that reduce damage and loss from wind. In order to qualify for this discount, homes must undergo a certified home wind inspection. However, many Floridians do not know of this law.
• Those with windstorm insurance can avoid a costly deductible. Deductibles for homes in hurricane-prone areas can exceed $20,000, meaning that mild to moderate wind damage might not be covered by insurance at all. If proper wind mitigation techniques have been used, these expenses can be avoided altogether.
• Wind mitigation helps protect the home from damage. Even if a home is insured, it is always costly when a house is damaged, both for the homeowner and the insurer. Repairs can take months, especially during material shortages that follow massive destruction to entire communities, as was the case after Hurricane Katrina struck Louisiana.

Wind Mitigation Features:

1. Roof Shape (common roof shapes are hip, gable or flat).

“Roof shape” refers to the geometry of the roof, rather than the type of roof covering. The end-walls of gable roofs extend vertically to the sloping roofline. These gable end-walls, if not properly built or braced, have been known to fail outward due to the negative suctions on the wall. Additionally, field testing has shown that hip roofs receive up to 40% less pressure from wind than gable roofs.

2. Roof Covering (includes asphalt shingles, clay tiles, metal, and built up roofs).

There are many kinds of roof covering materials, and some resist wind damage better than others. The most common roof covering materials in Florida are composition shingles and tiles. A key factor in roof covering performance is the method of attachment of the roof covering material to the roof deck. Nails, not staples, should be used to fasten these materials.

3. Roof Deck Attachment (method of securing roof sheathing to to trusses or rafters).

According to insurance claim data, a house becomes a major loss once the roof deck fails, even partially. The most common roof deck types are plywood and OSB. The most important feature of the roof deck by far is the attachment to the framing compared to the deck’s thickness. The following building techniques can help prevent wind damage:

• roof coverings using shingles that meet the FBC requirements;            
• roof decks that have been installed with large nails and close spacing; 
• hurricane clips/straps that hold the roof structure to the walls; and 
• protection of windows and glass doors with impact-resistant glazing or other protection systems.

• roof-to-wall connections:  This connection is a critical safeguard that keeps the roof attached to the building and acts to transfer the uplift loads into the vertical walls. This connection is crucial to the performance of the building due to the large negative pressures acting on the roof. Proper installation is essential to connector performance.

4. Secondary Water Resistance (SWR) (presence water resistive barrier).

This is a layer of protection that shields the home in the event that the roof covering fails. It will reduce leakage if the shingles are blown off. A secondary water barrier is relatively rare in homes. The two most common types are:  

• self-adhering modified bitumen underlayment, which is applied to the exterior of all joints; and

• foam seal, which is sprayed onto the underside of the decking.

5. Opening Protection (presence of rated windows and doors, or rated shutters).

Glass doors and windows should be replaced with impact-resistant glass. They should be structurally attached to the building in order to prevent the entire window from popping out of its frame. Sliding glass doors are especially vulnerable to flying debris due to their large expanse. Once an opening is created during a windstorm, the pressure within the house can rise high enough to cause the roof to fail in areas of low pressure.

Garage doors commonly fail during windstorms due to: 

• inadequate door-track strength and mounting systems; and

• flimsy metal panels.                         

    The following features can protect a garage door from wind damage:

• no windows;
• the tracks for the door that have six to nine mounting brackets, or continuous mounting;
• track brackets that are securely attached to the wall; and
• horizontal and/or vertical reinforcement on all panels.

6. Roof to Wall Attachment (method of securing roof trusses or rafters to walls).

This connection is a critical safeguard that keeps the roof attached to the building and acts to transfer the uplift loads into the vertical walls. This connection is crucial to the performance of the building due to the large negative pressures acting on the roof. Proper installation is essential to connector performance. 

In summary:

Wind mitigation is a strategy designed to limit the amount of wind damage inflicted on a structure. Various incentives are in place to motivate homeowners to implement these enhancements, and qualified inspectors can determine which improvements are necessary.

Septic Systems

Septic systems treat and disperse relatively small volumes of wastewater from individual and small numbers of homes and commercial buildings. Septic system regulation is usually a state and local responsibility. The EPA provides information to homeowners and assistance to state and local governments to improve the management of septic systems to prevent failures that could harm human health and water quality.

Information for Homeowners

If your septic tank failed, or you know someone whose did, you are not alone. As a homeowner, you are responsible for maintaining your septic system. Proper septic system maintenance will help keep your system from failing and will help maintain your investment in your home. Failing septic systems can contaminate the ground water that you and your neighbors drink and can pollute nearby rivers, lakes and coastal waters.

Ten simple steps you can take to keep your septic system working properly:
1.Locate your septic tank and drainfield. Keep a drawing of these locations in your records.
2.Have your septic system inspected at least every three years. Hire an InterNACHI inspector trained in septic inspections.
3.Pump your septic tank as needed (generally, every three to five years).
4.Don’t dispose of household hazardous waste in sinks or toilets.
5.Keep other household items, such as dental floss, feminine hygiene products, condoms, diapers, and cat litter out of your system.
6.Use water efficiently.
7.Plant only grass over and near your septic system. Roots from nearby trees or shrubs might clog and damage the system. Also, do not apply manure or fertilizers over the drainfield.
8.Keep vehicles and livestock off your septic system. The weight can damage the pipes and tank, and your system may not drain properly under compacted soil.
9.Keep gutters and basement sump pumps from draining into or near your septic system.
10.Check with your local health department before using additives. Commercial septic tank additives do not eliminate the need for periodic pumping and can be harmful to your system.

How does it work?

A typical septic system has four main components: a pipe from the home, a septic tank, a drainfield, and the soil. Microbes in the soil digest and remove most contaminants from wastewater before it eventually reaches groundwater. The septic tank is a buried, watertight container typically made of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene. It holds the wastewater long enough to allow solids to settle out (forming sludge), and oil and grease to float to the surface (as scum). It also allows partial decomposition of the solid materials. Compartments and a T-shaped outlet in the septic tank prevent the sludge and scum from leaving the tank and traveling into the drainfield area. Screens are also recommended to keep solids from entering the drainfield. The wastewater exits the septic tank and is discharged into the drainfield for further treatment by the soil. Micro-organisms in the soil provide final treatment by removing harmful bacteria, viruses and nutrients.

Your septic system is your responsibility!

Did you know that, as a homeowner, you’re responsible for maintaining your septic system? Did you know that maintaining your septic system protects your investment in your home? Did you know that you should periodically inspect your system and pump out your septic tank? If properly designed, constructed and maintained, your septic system can provide long-term, effective treatment of household wastewater. If your septic system isn’t maintained, you might need to replace it, costing you thousands of dollars. A malfunctioning system can contaminate groundwater that might be a source of drinking water. And if you sell your home, your septic system must be in good working order.

Pump frequently…

You should have your septic system inspected at least every three years by a professional, and have your tank pumped as necessary (generally every three to five years).

Use water efficiently…

Average indoor water use in the typical single-family home is almost 70 gallons per person per day. Dripping faucets can waste about 2,000 gallons of water each year. Leaky toilets can waste as much as 200 gallons each day. The more water a household conserves, the less water enters the septic system.

Flush responsibly…

Dental floss, feminine hygiene products, condoms, diapers, cotton swabs, cigarette butts, coffee grounds, cat litter, paper towels, and other kitchen and bathroom waste can clog and potentially damage septic system components. Flushing household chemicals, gasoline, oil, pesticides, anti-freeze and paint can stress or destroy the biological treatment taking place in the system, as well as contaminate surface waters and groundwater.

How do I maintain my septic system?

•Plant only grass over and near your septic system. Roots from nearby trees or shrubs might clog and damage the drainfield.
•Don’t drive or park vehicles on any part of your septic system. Doing so can compact the soil in your drainfield or damage the pipes, the tank or other septic system components.
•Keep roof drains, basement sump pump drains, and other rainwater and surface water drainage systems away from the drainfield. Flooding the drainfield with excessive water slows down or stops treatment processes and can cause plumbing fixtures to back up.

Why should I maintain my septic system?

A key reason to maintain your septic system is to save money! Failing septic systems are expensive to repair or replace, and poor maintenance is often the culprit. Having your septic system inspected (at least every three years) is a bargain when you consider the cost of replacing the entire system. Your system will need pumping every three to five years, depending on how many people live in the house and the size of the system. An unusable septic system or one in disrepair will lower your property’s value and could pose a legal liability. Other good reasons for safe treatment of sewage include preventing the spread of infection and disease, and protecting water resources. Typical pollutants in household wastewater are nitrogen phosphorus, and disease-causing bacteria and viruses. Nitrogen and phosphorus are aquatic plant nutrients that can cause unsightly algae blooms. Excessive nitrate-nitrogen in drinking water can cause pregnancy complications, as well as methemoglobinemia (also known as “blue baby syndrome”) in infancy. Pathogens can cause communicable diseases through direct or indirect body contact, or ingestion of contaminated water or shellfish. If a septic system is working properly, it will effectively remove most of these pollutants.

BEACHSIDE Home Inspection serves all of Brevard County Florida, including Cape Canaveral, Merritt Island, Cocoa Beach, Satellite Beach, Indian Harbour Beach, Indialantic, Melbourne Beach, Melbourne, Viera, and Palm Bay. For more information go to www.beachsideinspection.com